3 Corners and Simpson Desert via Coober Pedy

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GridPack
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3 Corners and Simpson Desert via Coober Pedy

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We were finally on our way after plenty of anxiety in the lead up as to whether the desert would be open, as flooding earlier in the year in North Queensland had to pass through the desert via Eyre Creek. Once we passed through Thargomindah the country started getting flatter and drier.
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We did a quick stop at the Dig Tree before heading into Innamincka for our first night with everyone together – Cos had spent the previous few nights in other National Parks.
The next morning we headed down the Strezelecki Track and then onto the Old Strezelecki Track on our way to Cameron’s Corner. Recent rain had made the flowers bloom, adding shades of yellow, and green to the red and whites of the dunes.
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After a long drive from Tasmania, Keri could finally tick Cameron’s Corner off her “Bucket” List. Ben seemed just as excited.
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Leaving Cameron’s Corner after one night, we knew we would have a long day travelling to the Gammon Ranges, so we set off early. Scott had the first mechanical issue of the trip – fortunately it was only a flat tyre. It didn’t hold us up for long. It was time for a leg stretch anyhow. That is Scott positioning the jack.
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We passed through the Gammon Ranges. They were very scenic but we only had a glimpse - we’ll have to spend more time exploring them properly on another trip. The campground we planned to stay at in the Ranges seemed deserted and not what we were expecting - so we pushed on to Leigh Creek. While some opted for a hotel room at the historic stone pub - Copley Pub, most of us camped at the caravan park and enjoyed a natter around the fire once we had set up.
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The next day was going to be a short day – which was fortunate as Cos’ car started playing up due to what we suspect in hindsight, was dirty fuel. While Cos had his car checked out by the “Guy who knows stuff” at Marree, the rest of us did a bit of exploring, which included a drink at the 2-storey stone pub.
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Onto the Oodnadatta Track heading for William Creek, we came across the “Sculpture Park” about 30km west of Marree. There were some very imaginative works of art made from all sorts of junk – the comment was made that some people have too much time on their hands. But it still warranted a walk through. I believe this one is called “Plane Henge”. A couple of galahs had made a nest in the cockpit.
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We soon arrived at the bottom edge of South Lake Eyre. There was definitely water in the lake, but Brian and Jo were the only ones to venture on foot very far out across the mud.
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Further along the track we encountered the mound springs. These were quite fascinating. Over the centuries, water welled up through a fissure in the ground, carrying minerals which were deposited around the fissure, building the ground up around the opening, like a volcano. These mounds are now quite a number of meters high with pools of water at the top spilling down onto the surrounding landscape.
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The Oodnadatta Track is quite a good road, and very pretty with the late afternoon sun peeking through the clouds.
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William Creek has an excellent campground and Pub – not bad for a place that we have been told has only 4 permanent residents. They also run joy flights over Lake Eyre, out of a landing strip behind the pub. A few of us gave it a go.
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Scott and Tess headed off towards Coober Pedy early to source a new tyre (and bolts for the bull bar as it turned out). The rest of us made the relatively short journey after the flight.
At Coober Pedy, we stayed at an underground campground a few kms south of the business centre. Some of the underground camping “caves” had doors and beds. Most had a light, dirt floor, dirt walls and dirt roof. Doesn’t come much more basic than that – though we were out of the weather.
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We had a rest day planned at Coober Pedy, so we did a bit of sightseeing. Most of us did a trip out to the Breakaways, (no relationship to our club), Conservation Park. The colours in the hills have to be seen to be believed. The flowers add to the natural ground colours making this an exception time to have visited. The dog fence also runs through here.
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Coober Pedy seems to be on the wane as the number of miners drops, though it is still a fascinating town due to the underground lifestyle.
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We headed off on the Sunday morning for our last refuel stop at Oodnadatta Pink Roadhouse – it really is pink! Then headed north through Pedirka Ruins and Dalhousie Ruins towards Dalhousie Springs.
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At Dalhousie Springs we repaired one of Terry’s tyres with the plug kit.
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We all had a swim in the Springs on the afternoon we arrived, though it was a bit chilly the next morning. Capturing the vapour coming off the hot springs at dawn, made our photographers drool.
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Leaving Dalhousie Springs, we headed east along the French Line.
Brian and Scott check out the sign at the Erabena Crossing.
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We held our deferred July club meeting on the French Line, some distance west of Poeppel’s Corner under a full moon, around the campfire. Probably one of the more remote meetings we have had. The remoteness didn’t mean we weren’t eating well. Tess made some terrific pancakes to be shared around the whole crew – I think Dave supplied the ice cream.
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Min Min lights or UFO’s ???
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There is plenty of open space in the centre of Australia. The track disappears into the distance.
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We arrive at the second of our Corner’s – Poeppel’s Corner, where Queensland, South Australia and Northern Territory all meet.
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From here we ran up the K1 line crossing back into the Northern Territory for a while then onto the QAA line heading east.
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We usually go to remote areas when there is no moon to capture pictures of the night sky. However the desert at night with a full moon, isn’t too shabby either!
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David and Chris went out with a UV light searching for scorpions which fluoresce under the UV. They took a couple of terrific photos. I hope they will post up a couple here.
And dawn in the desert:
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Cos was enjoying himself with some running repairs under his vehicle. Same repair he did while on the Cape York trip.
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The normal crossing Eyre Creek crossing on the QAA line was impassable so there were detours set up to use the bypass crossing, roughly 30km north of the normal crossing. The bypass has a firm bottom, so less risk of getting stuck. It seemed strange splashing through water in the middle of a desert.
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The creek had extended across between the dunes. These areas were covered with lush green growth. The contrast was stark between the areas that had been covered with water and the normal desert.
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Another hour or two and we arrived at Big Red for playtime and the group photo.
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We then aired up somewhat and headed into Birdsville for a shower and beer.
The next day, we visited Betoota then the third corner – Haddon’s Corner.
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We spent the night at Windorah with a last chance to take some photos from their local dunes.
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A great trip – many thanks to our trip leader David!
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cuboid
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Re: 3 Corners and Simpson Desert via Coober Pedy

Post by cuboid »

Great report Don. I wish I could have made that trip.
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Dave
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Re: 3 Corners and Simpson Desert via Coober Pedy

Post by Dave »

Thanks Don for the fantastic trip report.
I'm yet to find time to download the photos off the various cameras/phones we had. But in the mean time, here is a photo of the scorpion that was easily found under UV light.

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I also had that group photo prepared earlier.
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And a photo from the camping site on the bypass track.
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Sunset over the sand dunes at Windorah was also a great sight.
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Cheers
David.
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Re: 3 Corners and Simpson Desert via Coober Pedy

Post by CBM_64 »

Thanks for another great trip report. Here’s some of my photos.

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Just south of St George is the silo art of Thallon

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A good start to the trip. Nice clear skies for my first night camping gave me a good view of the Milky Way.

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Star gazing in Curranwinya NP

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On the road to Leigh Creek

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Lined up on the Strzelecki Track

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Discussing the art at Mutonia Sculpture Park

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Keri on the Oodnadatta Track

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We didn’t see many budgies on this trip.

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The Breakaways just before sunset

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And just after sunset with the moon shining through the clouds

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You’d never guess these two are brothers.

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Entering Witjira NP

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Steam rising off Dalhousie springs early in the morning

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Someone had sharp eyes to spot this Dingo in the Simpson Desert

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Crossing the sand dunes of the Simpson Desert

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Our bush camp in the desert

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Watching the full moon rise over our camp in the Simpson Desert

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Our last day in the desert

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Big Red was a bit windy so you had to hold on to your hat

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I thought we would see more Wedge-tailed Eagles

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Sunset at Windorah

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Just after sunset the Windorah sand dunes still show up red in the camera while the Milky Way comes out

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Cattle yard outside Windorah

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The old courthouse in Windorah

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I’ll let Don explain what he was up to here.

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Time for one last outing with the camera in Roma before driving home.

Here’s a map of the 6,600 kilometre route recorded on Exploroz. You can see it in more detail online if interested https://www.exploroz.com/tracklogs/6428 ... -road-trip
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